The following article appeared in the web site at www.fishdoc.co.uk
I’ve been doing a ton of consult through Fishdoc.net and even a pretty good pond-call load. The same things keep coming up over and over. People buy fish from someone who says they’re already quarantined, so they don’t quarantine the fish. Sickness results.
Folks aren’t doing enough water changes, this is a recurrent theme in almost ALL of the cases I have consulted on. “When was the last time you did more than fifty percent water change?” and the answer in the very sickest ponds is: “Never”.
I recommend 20% water changes every 2-3 weeks. Then, twice a year, especially in Spring and Fall, a 70-90% major water change to really reduce the levels of background pollution.
I was asked: “Could we have such a background pollution problem to kill the fish *AND* which would not result in any abnormal pond chemistry readings (e.g. normal levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, etc.)?”
OH YES. This (“background pollution”) is what has limited your fishes’ growth over the last few years. People used to think the fish physically “knew” how small their facility was and biologically “limited their size to their surroundings.” Now we know this is not true. In fact, THE FISH “CHEMICALLY” KNOW how small their facilities are. Simply by the rapid buildup and accumulation of stressful background pollution which stunts growth.
The tests you and I talk about are narrowly limited to nitrogen reduction and pH, which are factors that are capable of quick kills.
“Background pollution” refers to physical “organics” (rotting materials, wastes and leaves) and chemical pollutants like phosphates, nitrates, the ratio of carbon dioxide from decay to oxygen by surface agitation (distantly related to the voodoo “redox potential” which if understood is a good indicator of system health, and even hydrogen sulfide gas production, etc.
It’s a mixed bag of various “conditions” which are difficult to quantify but which are easily remedied by regular water changes.
And, low and behold, without the adverse ‘conditions’ itemized above; fish no longer are limited in growth ‘to the size of the container that live in’ and you get huge fish with their tails hanging over the edge of the container.
This may or may not be desirable.
Remember, the size of your facility limits what can biologically be carried. So a few fish died. This created more room for others. A natural solution has been applied, for a while. As they grow a little more, Mother Nature will “off” a few more. And so on until you have one or two sizable fish matched (and maxed) to the pond.
Filtration and frequent water changes reduce the stress of background pollution and increase what Mother Nature will graciously allow to continue to live in your pond.
So, folks should do more water changes. These are the habits of the most successful Koi keepers.
What else do you see in sick ponds?
I go see ponds and the sickest ones have that ‘yellowy’ color in the depths. Watch as your white fish (perhaps a Kohaku) swims into the ‘deep part’ and notice if it seems yellowy in the skin. Often, these are tannins which have come from leaves in the pond, or from runoff from rainwater, or from bogs. It should not be tolerated. Major water changes and then elimination of the source of the tannins should be endeavored.
The hardest ponds I’ve faced this ear are “bogged”. Bog gardens which share water with main ponds are a cesspool of dirt, noxious gases, toxins and dying plant material, all of which contribute to deteriorating water quality and fish health. Now, if more people
used soilless potting media or had all the plants available for removal and overhaul on an annual basis the trouble would not be great. The best bogs have their *own* water supply and circulation so the plants are happy, and the fish are happy.
I’ve been doing a ton of consult through Fishdoc.net and even a pretty good pond-call load. The same things keep coming up over and over. People buy fish from someone who says they’re already quarantined, so they don’t quarantine the fish. Sickness results.
Folks aren’t doing enough water changes, this is a recurrent theme in almost ALL of the cases I have consulted on. “When was the last time you did more than fifty percent water change?” and the answer in the very sickest ponds is: “Never”.
I recommend 20% water changes every 2-3 weeks. Then, twice a year, especially in Spring and Fall, a 70-90% major water change to really reduce the levels of background pollution.
I was asked: “Could we have such a background pollution problem to kill the fish *AND* which would not result in any abnormal pond chemistry readings (e.g. normal levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, etc.)?”
OH YES. This (“background pollution”) is what has limited your fishes’ growth over the last few years. People used to think the fish physically “knew” how small their facility was and biologically “limited their size to their surroundings.” Now we know this is not true. In fact, THE FISH “CHEMICALLY” KNOW how small their facilities are. Simply by the rapid buildup and accumulation of stressful background pollution which stunts growth.
The tests you and I talk about are narrowly limited to nitrogen reduction and pH, which are factors that are capable of quick kills.
“Background pollution” refers to physical “organics” (rotting materials, wastes and leaves) and chemical pollutants like phosphates, nitrates, the ratio of carbon dioxide from decay to oxygen by surface agitation (distantly related to the voodoo “redox potential” which if understood is a good indicator of system health, and even hydrogen sulfide gas production, etc.
It’s a mixed bag of various “conditions” which are difficult to quantify but which are easily remedied by regular water changes.
And, low and behold, without the adverse ‘conditions’ itemized above; fish no longer are limited in growth ‘to the size of the container that live in’ and you get huge fish with their tails hanging over the edge of the container.
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